Step 1: The controls came to you partially assembled. The right extension is with the right arm. Easiest if you just leave them together. Make sure they rotate freely.
Step 2: Protect the radiator shroud by putting cardboard or something to prevent scratching when doing assembly. When you remove the controls or put the new ones on, they have a bunch of wiggle room and you can hit the shroud.
Step 3: Shift side is easiest. Remove the 6mm bolt on the frame that holds the axle in the bike. The entire controls will come off at that point but still be attached to the shift rod. Then remove the shift rod 8mm bolt.
Step 4: (This to me is the hardest part) Remove the footpeg from the stock extension by removing the c-clip on the cotter pin. Try not to mangle it. If you do tweak it (you will) just bend it back into shape and flatten it back up. If it is really mangled get new ones from hd.
Step 5: Install the new toepegs on both arms. It has an allen bolt in it so tighten it on by hand and then use an allen wrench on the back to make it nice and tight.
Step 6: You can install the footpegs now as well or after they are on the bike. I find it easier now instead of when the controls are installed.
Step 7: Thoroughly clean the inside of the frame where the axles are inserted. Especially the brake side. Do not force the new controls into the frame if they don't go in easily. Clean using wd40, sandpaper or wire brush. The brake side is usually the bad one because when the bike is on the jiffy stand the frame where the axles go in is pointed down towards the frame and will hold water.
Step 8: Attach the new arm to the shift rod. You don't need to really tighten it at this point.
Step 9: Insert the assembly back in the frame like the stock ones and attach with the included 6mm bolt you got with the controls. DO NOT USE THE STOCK 6mm bolt! It is the crappiest bolt I have ever seen put on a motorcycle.
Step 10: Tighten the 6mm and the shift rod bolt. Test to make sure nothing catches. I have had people that the shift rod hit the kickstand but it was because the shift rod was bent. Make sure shifting up and down rebounds.
Step 11: Other side is the same but you have a cotter pin holding the controls to the brake reservoir. This can be a little tricky because you have to disassemble it while it is still really close to the shroud. This is where the cardboard is very important. The split pin is bent around the cotter pin. Just straighten it out and pull it through. I usually use pliers.
Step 12: Flatten out the split pin. If it looks fatigued or messed up you may want a new one.
Step 13: Do the same thing with the toe and footpegs
Step 14: You may want to remove the arm from the extension to install the cotter pin. Just make sure when it goes back in you put it in straight. You should not have to force it in. I have had a guy that gouged the inside of the arm because he pushed the axle back in crooked and just manhandled it to get it through. Created a burr and he had to sand the burr out.
Step 15: Install the extension and arm onto the bike same as the other side. Tighten everything down. Test to make sure brake rebounds freely.
Step 15: Take it out for a spin and enjoy!
Pro axle instructions
Step 1: Make sure the bevel on the back of the instructions is clear of powder coating
Step 2: You must press the axles in with a proper hydraulic press. Do not use a vise. The axles must be pressed in straight.
Step 3: Protect the extension with tape or other covering to protect the finish. Clean axles thoughly.
Step 4: Press the axles in slowly, making sure they go in straight. Stop as soon as the lip reaches the extension. DO NOT OVER PRESS! If you press too much or too hard you can bow the axles and cause them to not fit in the arms smoothly.
Step 5: Use the included spacer between the extensions and the arm. The spacer is a very tight fit.
Step 6: Make sure the arm fits on the axle without binding and turns freely.